Visiting Hovenweep

Ruins at Hovenweep

Sitting atop the Cajon Mesa, the ruins at Hovenweep rest in a stark, yet peaceful environment.  We visited the Little Ruin Canyon area next to the visitor's center at Hovenweep, and this national monument quickly became one of my very favorite places.  When we returned home from our whirlwind trip through southeastern Utah, Hovenweep was the place I missed.

Sign at Hovenweep

Hovenweep was designated as a national monument in 1923 by President Warren G. Harding.  Hundreds, if not thousands of ruins dot its landscape.  It is noted for its amazing towers rising from the sagebrush-covered ground.

Twin Towers at Hovenweep

Most visitors to Hovenweep walk the rim of Little Ruin Canyon to see the Square Tower group of ruins.  Because it is a rim walk, the trail is pretty flat, and is an easy hike.  Only the portion to the first overlook is paved and wheelchair accessible, however.  The rest of the trail is primitive and wends its way over dirt and rock.  Near the end of the loop, the trail dips down into Little Ruin Canyon, and there is a bit of a climb back to the rim, but it is still an easy hike.

Conglomerate rock on the trail out of Little Ruin Canyon

One thing I noticed as we walked out of the canyon was the layers of conglomerate rock at Hovenweep.  A pattern of oceans and uplifts created the geology here.  

View of Square Tower in Little Ruin Canyon

Hovenweep is near the Utah-Colorado border, and there is evidence of interaction between the people who occupied this site, and the residents of Mesa Verde.  The Square Tower group of buildings hit its peak occupation during the Pueblo III period.  Archeaological finds show limited occupation of this area during earlier periods.  Once this land was cultvated, not covered in sage brush as it is now.

Towers at Hovenweep

Another thing that sets the ruins at Hovenweep apart is their remarkable preservation.  This is highly unusual because the buildings are exposed to the elements, not sheltered under cliffs as many Puebloan ruins are.  There are places along the trail where you can view the incredibly skilled construction of these walls.

Detail of wall construction at Hovenweep

One of my favorite things about Hovenweep was the solitude.  If you want a stop away from the normal crowds at Utah's national parks, Hovenweep is well worth the drive.  We shared the rim trail with a handful of people on the day we visited (early spring), but since we were all hiking at a different pace, we had plenty of time alone. 

The Castle at Hovenweep

It is hard to choose a favorite building at Hovenweep.  I was impressed by Boulder House--a building literally constructed in a large rock in the canyon.  But the beauty of the Castle ruin was undeniable.

Boulder House - tucked in the rock.

We shared the canyon with crows and other birds, lizards, and a rabbit on the day we visited.  Watching the local populace was part of the  fun.

Rabbit at Hovenweep

  The Hovenweep site dates from the same time period as the cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde.  The buildings of this era are more varied and elaborate.  An astronomer found that the ports in the tower at Hovenweep castle mark the solstices and equinoxes.  The families who lived here controlled the water seep at the mouth of the canyon, built a large number of buildings, and farmed the land.  It was a significant community in the early 1200s.

Square Tower in Little Ruin Canyon

If you go:  Hovenweep National Monument is about an hour's drive from Blanding, Utah.  You can see the Little Ruin Canyon area in about two hours.  Camping is available at the monument, and the visitor's center has restroom facilities, water, and a gift shop.  Spring and fall are the best time to visit, as temperatures can soar above 100 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer.  The monument is open year round, however the visitor's center is closed on Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day, and New Year's Day.

Share Hovenweep with a friend!  Dave Darinko at Hovenweep.

Visiting Anasazi State Park

Replica buildings outside the museum

Mesa Verde, it is not, but if you would like to get a sampling of ancestral Puebloan or Anasazi life, this little state park near Boulder, Utah, is a pleasant stop.  The museum is nice, and continues outdoors where you can visit a replica building, and also see an excavated site.  

Arrowhead display inside the museum.

The museum has displays of artifacts such as arrowheads and pottery.  It also has information about the region.  While at the museum, we viewed a short video presentation about the inhabitants of this site.  Occupied in the 1100s, these buildings may have once been the homes of about 200 people.

Pattern found on pottery from the Coombs site

The museum has a display of designs found on pottery in the different regions of the Southwest. This particular design is found at the actual site.  I love this style of pottery, and find the black on white geometric designs both interesting and beautiful.

Ancestral Puebloan pottery on display at Anasazi State Park

After touring the museum, we went outside to see the rest of the exhibits.  A reconstruction of a building found at the site is the first thing you encounter as you walk outside.  Notice how small it seems by modern standards!

Peeking out of a Puebloan replica house

There were once over 100 structures on the site.  As the population grew, the people added on to their buildings, until they formed a large U-shaped construction. About half of the buildings were used for living space and half for storage.

Construction detail of replica building

The Coombs Valley site was occupied in the 12th century and was utilized for about 75 years.   Corn, or maize was a dietary staple.  Other crops were also grown, and there is indication that the people were adept at using native plants for both food and medicinal purposes.  Hunting supplemented their diet.

This photo shows how the walls were constructed.

The excavated portion of the site is covered and has walkways around it so you can view the site from different angles.  Wooden beams poke up out of the soil.  They are charred, indicating that at some point, this site burned.  It is interesting to look at the excavation and see areas of charcoal on the floor where the fire pits would have been.

View of the excavations on site.

This view of the excavations shows the small rooms.

As you follow the walkways around the site, take a few minutes to read the informational signs.  These signs quickly give you an overview of what archaeologists have learned about these ancient residents.  We also enjoyed looking at the pit house.  Pit houses are common in Fremont culture as well. 

Pit house at Anasazi State Park

 

Metates for corn grinding at Anasazi State Park

Overall, I enjoyed my visit to Anasazi State Park.  You can see quite a bit in an hour or two, and this is a great stop during a day trip.  The museum and site are small, but hold a lot of information.

View from the excavations.

If you go:  Anasazi State Park is located in the town of Boulder, Utah, at 460 N. Highway 12.  It is a great stop along Scenic Highway 12.  The park is open year round, with extended hours during the summer months.  As with all state parks in Utah, there is a small fee.